October 15-17, 2009 - Peoria, Illinois

We departed Ottawa to continue down the Illinois River. Here, the banks are forested, and state nature preserves and wildlife refuges line the river. We spotted a bald eagle in a tree at Buffalo Rock.

Our sole lock today is the Starved Rock Lock, in the Starved Rock State Park. We had about an hour wait for the Aggie C, a pusher tug with barges, which had to break into two groups for two trips down the lock. We tied to a cell (a large cement pod) along the dam, and had our game of cribbage while we waited and kept an eye on Aggie C’s progress. She is the type of tug built for the low bridges in the upper Illinois River, with a hydraulic pilot house, here seen in the down position….

……and here she’s in the up position, peeking into the lock to see what’s going on!

We were put into the lock ahead of the Aggie C, who slid in behind us. Then we could exit first, steer around the tight spot where her remaining barges were tied waiting for her, and be on our way.

This is the Starved Rock, a beautiful formation over 400 million years old. Waterfalls, bluffs and 18 canyons dominate the landscape of the spectacular Starved Rock State Park.

We saw our first riverboat paddlewheeler here, the Spirit of Peoria, out for a color tour.

We knew we were coming into civilization, as the riverbanks became more industrial. Coal is being offloaded at this power plant.

We had thought to stay at Chillicothe, but found only a few inches under Monarch’s keel while still eight feet from their dock, so we pressed on. We had no point of reference, but later found out the river’s water level is down. Even the marinas we phoned along Peoria Lake couldn’t accommodate our 4½-foot draft. The harbor master at the Illinois Valley Yacht (IVY) Club asked how we felt about plowing up some mud to get to their dock (NOT very good). So we headed for the downtown Peoria City Dock, which had 12 feet alongside.

The dock proved to be a fine spot to stay. As it is past boating season here, there was no dockmaster, and we couldn't find anyone to take our money. So we had to stay for free! We were fortunate to also have dockside power, as the weather is cool. With the lows in the high 30s at night, we needed Monarch’s heat on. Friday evening we had an excellent dinner at Two 25, the restaurant in the Mark Twain Hotel just a few blocks from the dock.

We had planned to spend two nights here, but added a third when we learned that the Peoria Lock, five miles downstream, was down for repairs all Saturday! So, we took advantage of the Art Fair and Farmer’s Market on the riverfront.

Downtown Peoria has many businesses, banks and office buildings, including the world headquarters of the Caterpillar Corporation. Nestled among the buildings, we found this impressive bronze Sailors & Soldiers Monument to the town’s Civil War heroes.

Now the Spirit of Peoria docked right behind us in the harbor, coming and going with tourists in search of fall colors.