Friday, January 22, 2010

January 14, 2010 - Marathon, Florida

Departing Everglades City, we headed to Little Shark River. We passed Indian Key, where John James Audubon once camped while drawing and studying the region’s native birds. It is a favorite roosting spot for beautiful white pelicans.
Little Shark River’s entrance channel is the shallowest of the region. We were at high tide inbound, and so had no difficulty. We proceeded about ½ mile upriver, to anchor mid-channel in deep water.
This is one of the most beautiful anchorages in the area. The dark waters and strong tidal currents reflect a shoreline heavily wooded with cypress, pine and hardwoods. Hundreds of years before the Europeans arrived here, Timucuan Indians poled their canoes along these shores. Now, fishing boats find good catching along the river’s banks.
The snowy egrets roost in the mangroves along the shore, and then take sudden flight in a flurry of beating wings.
The next morning, after making our way out of Little Shark River in much skinnier water, we crossed Florida Bay. Our destination is Marathon, about halfway down the chain of the Florida Keys. This was our first visit to our new southern club home, Marathon Yacht Club. We docked with kind assistance from fellow members, and had an excellent dinner in the clubhouse that evening. Later, we met many members at the Club’s hot dog roast, held every Sunday night.
Known as the “Heart of the Keys,” this area has long been inhabited by Native Americans, seafarers, and other settlers. Then, in the early 1900s, the Florida East Coast Railway came through, and the island became known as Marathon, allegedly from the railroad workers who likened the pace of construction to a Marathon race.
The island has about 10,000 year-round residents, and about 280 mooring balls in its Boot Key Harbor, which if full to capacity. As we settled onto a mooring ball for a month’s stay, we are learning that the locals are among the friendliest and most down-to-earth folks. We have attended a potluck supper of boaters at the City Marina headquarters, and Sunday service at the United Methodist Church. It really is a cruiser’s paradise, with West Marine, Daffy Doug’s Dollar Store and Publix Supermarket all within walking distance.

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

January 11, 2010 - Everglades City, Florida

We departed Marco Island after Monarch’s month-long stay, while we visited everyone in Michigan.
Our first stop for two nights was Panther Key. We had visited here before, and enjoyed its pristine beaches known for excellent shelling.
As the weather was quite cool, we found the surrounding area deserted, and we were the lone boat at anchor. The only other sign of life was a small tent ashore, and a small boat on the beach. It was too cold for shelling!
Next up was Russell Pass, where we got out the extra blankets and watched a beautiful sunset. The clear night skies were the prelude to very cold temperatures that had been predicted for overnight.
Our recording thermometer captured the overnight low of 32. This was a near-record low.
Monarch’s heaters brought the inside temperature to a comfortable 70 in time for breakfast.
As we sipped our morning coffee, we looked out the ports at the surrounding water, where the tide was bringing hundreds of dead fish past the boat. We later learned that the low temperatures had killed catfish, snook, tarpon, jacks and all manner of fish. They sought the shallow waters to feed; when the tide receded, the plummeting temperatures in the shallow water killed them.
We headed to Everglades City, just a few miles north of our anchorage. At the entrance is the Outward Bound post where intrepid outdoors people can base their Everglades adventures. People will kayak or canoe throughout the Everglades National Park, camping among the snakes and crocodiles, along the way.
Everglades City is a sleepy town, with fishing as the prime business.
We docked at the Rod & Gun Club, built on a foundation set in 1864 by the town’s first permanent settler. By 1922, famed Florida railroad tycoon and developer Barron Collier purchased the Rod and Gun Club, operating it as a sportsman’s hideaway that catered to many famous and notable guests.
Today’s tourism can be noisy, with airboat rides a popular pastime.
To our surprise, we saw the campers from Panther Key, in their double-masted sailboat with auxiliary oar-power. They came up the Barron River, past the Rod & Gun Club, and around the bend into the Everglades.

This evening, we had dinner with friends Lynn and Larry Graham from Tobermory, Ontario, at their place just a few miles south, in Chokoloskee.