Sunday, October 25, 2009

October 23, 2009 - Kimmswick, Missouri

After a day of heavy rains at the dock, we were ready to get up and go. Here, we wait with two other boats at the Mel Price Lock, just south of Alton. We had coordinated to go through together, which the lock tenders prefer. But then, six more boats announced they were coming out of the marina, and we had to wait some more. Hurry up and wait!

This is a beautiful 53-foot Selene trawler against the lock wall, whose owners, Peter and DiDi are from Charlottesville, Virginia. They summer in Perry Sound in the Georgian Bay.
The six boats we had waited for were mostly houseboats, which seem like the vessel for the rivers – shallow draft and loads of living space. This houseboat’s captain must be an expert locker, as we could see his rig of two swiveling wheels that easily slid down the lock walls.
We were first out of the lock on the downriver side, just in time to be tossed wildly by a tug, which was testing its wing engine at full throttle while nosed up against the lock cell. Jerry did a good job of fighting the wheel, as the tug’s prop wash tried to suck us in.
Next, the Missouri River entered the Mississippi, completing the “Meeting of the Great Rivers” including the Illinois, which we had left earlier. Further on, the Army Corps of Engineers doesn’t want any boaters to become confused and go over the rapids instead of into the Chain of Rock Canal. This sign just can’t be missed.
The Chain of Rock Lock was our most interesting ever. Once again, we were secured in the lock and waited for about an hour for the laggard houseboats and a sailboat to catch up and get tied in the lock. The wind was up, the houseboats, which have lots of freeboard, became hard to control, and some captains were not as experienced and competent as they should have been. It looked like bumper boats. We held our breath until they finally came to a safe stop – not too close to Monarch – and they tied up for the locking.
As we exited the lock, there were some tugs and barges coming at us, and the pleasure boats were arrayed like little ducks behind us. What a lot of traffic!
Now we pass St. Louis, Missouri, on the right descending bank, with its famous 630 foot-high Gateway Arch. This is the tallest monument in the U.S., and the Mississippi River’s most famous landmark.
The Arch is quite a site along the riverbank, providing a focal point for the city. The banks here are mostly industrial, and there were lots of tugs and barges.
A bit later, the riverbanks became more scenic and forested, with houses high on the bluffs.
Our next stop is Hoppies Marine Services, where we met the proprietor Fern along with her husband, Charles Hopkins. Their business on the river was started in the 1930s by his grandfather. The Hopkins men also worked on the river as navigational marker lamplighters for years, long before powered lights were installed. Fern told us the lights needed to be refueled with kerosene every 48 hours, which kept them very busy. Charles may be the last living Mississippi River lamplighter.
The “dock” is made up of single barges laid end-to-end, parallel with the shore, and connected to it by a catwalk with wheels on the shore side. The wheels roll up and down a cement launch ramp, as the water rises or recedes.
This is a rough and ready operation. There were about 20 boats at this “dock” all tied nice and snug with our bows into the 3-knot current of the Mississippi River.
Hoppies is at the town of Kimmswick, Missouri, which is on the right descending bank. This small town was celebrating Apple Butter Festival this weekend. We didn’t stay for it, but the flock of houseboats out of Port of St. Charles, Missouri (about 60 miles north) had made their annual trek especially for the weekend festival. They had their golf carts trucked down, just so they could run around town, and had them on the “dock” as well!
The “dock” had power, water and restrooms, but no showers.
Fern is a lifelong boater and renown for her knowledge of this section of the Mississippi River. She holds daily chart briefings for the boaters, which we were delighted to attend.
Our new friends DiDi and Peter also sat in on the briefing. We all took copious notes and asked questions, which Fern was pleased to answer. With her valuable local knowledge, we now feel we know what may be around the next bend! We invited DiDi and Peter, and Liz and Steve (from the Mainship Shingebiss out of Newport, Minnesota) for drinks on Monarch this evening, and to discuss our voyages so far and yet to come.
As noted, the last couple days produced a lot of rain. In fact, the area has had record rain so far this month. As the Mississippi River centers a huge watershed, there are predictions for the river to rise five feet overnight.
And the next morning, here’s the same shoreline, with the predicted five feet of water evident! We can expect more current in our favor as we continue down the Mississippi River, but also more flotsam, trees, stumps and junk!
Here is where Hoppies is located -

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